|
-
A detail form a miniature painting centuries
old shows the love of pearls and jewelry.
It is much more common for images throughout
the ages to depict males rather than females.
-
Maharaja of Patilia, Yadavindra Singh,
in a spectacular suite of diamonds. Generations
of gems and jewels are presented in this
photograph from 1941. Take note of the
size of the diamonds in the center of
his chest.
-
As a young boy, Sayaji Rao III shows
an early love of jewels. This picture
circa 1875. He would later become a highly
visible and well-traveled adult.
-
Muhammad Ali Walahjah died in 1795, ruled
in Arcot. He has magnificent diamonds
and extremely large pearls, although the
artist Kettle may have enhanced these.
-
The last of the great Mughal Maharajas,
Bahadur Shah II. The British deposed him
in 1857 and exiled to Rangoon where he
died in 1862. Note his elaborate headdress,
and halo of light depicted around his
head.
-
Maharaja of Alwar, Jey Singh Kachwaha,
is counter balanced by coins in a traditional
gesture. His weight in gold coins is distributed
to his subjects and the poor.
-
Another boy prince, unidentified, showing
an early affinity for gems. Looking very
relaxed and comfortable.
-
Maharaja of Rewa, Raghuraj Singh, is
bejeweled with regalia from India and
the British Empire. He has gloves and
face paint in part because he was a leper,
and desired to cover the scaring from
the terrible disease.
-
A detail of a painting depicting a gift
of a turban ornament to the future Shah
Jehan, the Maharaja responsible for constructing
the Taj Mahal during the peak of the Mughal
Empire. The gift is from his grandfather,
Akbar.
-
This wonderful piece is worn on the upper
arm and was to symbolize royalty. It is
called a bazuband, and this piece has
exceptionally clear diamonds. The reverse
side has beautiful enameling, called minikari.
-
In 1948, this procession of Maharajas
took place in Jaipur to commerate the
arrival of the Maharaja of Baria.
-
The Maharaja of Cooch Behar in 1913.
A very elegant and understated photo of
a family who had many gems set by western
houses in the 20th century.
-
Young son of the Maharaja of Bansda atop
a bejeweled elephant in the 19th century.
Note the umbrella, an ancient symbol of
royalty.
-
A Mughal cap or crown covered in semi
precious and precious stones with hundreds
of pearls. Note the turban ornament, and
the placement of the heron feathers.
-
Maharaja of Indore from the Holkar clan,
circa 1875. They came to power and prominence
during the decline of the Mughal Empire.
-
This sculpture of a female courtesan,
or more likely a deity, shows how the
love of adornment has changed little over
the intervening centuries. This sculpture
of sandstone from the 11th century in
central India.
-
-
In a role reversal by western standards,
the wife of Pratapsingh Gaekwar is helped
into his strands of pearls.
-
The 18th-century fort at Gwalior from
the Scindia family. This clan defied the
advances of the Mughals for decades due
in part to their riches.
-
A fabulous jigha, or turban ornament.
This is worn on the front of the turban,
and has an enameled reverse side along
with a mechanism to insert a heron feather
within it. It is from the 18th century,
North India.
-
17th century, North India, 55 mm. Ruby,
emerald, and pearl pendant in 18 kt gold.
Fabricated in Kundan technique.
-
17th century, North India, 52 mm. Ruby,
emerald, diamond and pearl pendant in
18 kt gold. Fabricated in Kundan technique.
-
17th century, North India. Ruby and emerald
cabochon ring in 18 kt gold. Fabricated
and repousse in Kundan technique.
-
17th century, North India, 45 mm. Ruby
and emerald cabochons, diamonds and pearls
in this pendant. Set in 18 kt gold. Fabricated
and repousse in Kundan technique.
-
Later 16th, early 17th century, 57 mm
diameter. Nephrite jade cup, carved with
stones set in kundan style including emeralds,
rubies and sapphires.
-
First quarter 17 th Century North India
52 mm Ruby and emerald cabochons, diamonds
and pearls in this pendant. Set in 18
kt gold. Fabricared and repousse with
Kundan technique. Engraving on back.
-
Circa 1650, North India, 45 mm. Pendant
with crazed ruby cabochon and emerald
drop set in Kundan style. Richly enameled
back.
-
Circa 1650, North India/Deccan, 30 mm.
Pendant with center ruby with diamonds
in Kundan style and pearl. Reverse side
with floral enamel.
-
Circa 1675, North India/Deccan, 48 mm.
Pendant with center ruby with diamonds
in Kundan style and emerald pendant. Reverse
side with floral champleve enamel.
-
18th century, Deccan, Hyderabad, 135
mm x 41 mm. Hard to find bracelet with
diamonds, rubies and speinel. Set in Kundan
style.
-
Maharaja Bhupendra Singh, taken circa
1911. His turban piece, or sarpech, is
diamonds and emeralds and was made by
Cartier, Paris. He also wears fourteen
strands of matched natural pearls of gigantic
sizes. Note too the medals from England
and other countries he wears proudly.
-
An ancient fresco depicting a deity in
all types of jewelry. Demonstrating the
love of jewelry even for gods and their
consorts.
-
A late 19th-century photograph of a very
happy young prince showing off his jewelry
for perhaps the first time. The love of
jewelry is passed down through the generations,
along with the jewelry itself.
-
A bride in all her finery from Lucknow
in Uttar Pradesh. Jewelry carries great
significance to marriage ceremonies in
India, both as dowery and in a cultural
context.
-
Mid 19th-century earrings from Rajasthan,
1 7/8 “ diameter. These elegant earrings
have pearls, rubies and granulation technique.
The ornaments on the far right and left
show towards the back.
-
Gold earrings from Tamil Nadu. This traditional
design is remarkably modern and architectural
due to its refined, unadorned geometric
style. It is unusual for surfaces not
to be decorated. It is hollow construction,
but filled with pitch to keep from compressing.
-
An astonishingly elaborate anklet in
sterling silver showing a high degree
of repousee in which the metal is moved
from the inside and outside with steel
tools. Outer diameter of almost 5 inches,
a hinge and clasp allow access. From Gujarat,
and worn by Maldhari women.
-
A sketch from 1856 showing goldsmiths
at work. The artisan on the left is using
a blow tube to introduce oxygen to increase
the heat, and in manipulating the metal
with tongs in his right hands. He is likely
annealing the silver by heating to about
1200 degrees, or soldering two pieces
together. Hammers and anvils appear at
his feet. The artist on the right is forging
the metal to form an anklet. A completed
anklet appears by his left knee.
-
A fairly modern family of goldsmiths
which are found throughout India. Note
how the techniques shown in this photograph
are similar to the sketch from 150 years
ago. The essential components are identical.
-
An engraving from the 19th century depicting
a traveling goldsmith. It was common for
goldsmiths to travel to the home of the
patron where he would realize commissions
or rebuild existing pieces.
-
Maharaja Sayaji-Rav Gaekwar of Gujarat,
circa 1902. Of particular note is the
seven-row diamond necklace of outstanding
size and quality.
-
A sketch made in 1903 demonstrating how
a blowpipe can be used to increase heat
into a furnace by introducing more oxygen.
These artisans are engaged in the Thewa
process of jewelry making, which fuses
glass to gold.
-
Maharaja Singh Bahadur of Alwar. Born
in 1882. Many formal portraits of Maharajas
were made to commemorate the grand “Durbars”
between Indian and English royalty.
-
Map of India and surrounding terrorities
showing the locals of the various Mughal
states and Maharajas.
|
|
|
 |
|
|